Despite all of my months of preparation, our visit to the island of Capri did not go as planned! This island is so gorgeous, and there’s so much to explore, but visitors are at the mercy of the weather and sea conditions. We loved our day on the island of Capri, but we definitely had to roll with the punches on this one.
The only way to access Capri is by ferry. The ferry from Positano to Capri runs throughout the day, and our plan was to catch the earliest ferry out the next morning so we could maximize our time spent there. We woke up to find that all ferries to the island were cancelled! How can they shut down all transportation to and from the island?!? Due to the high winds and rough sea conditions, it was too dangerous for the ferry to cross. That’s ok. We decided to have a beach day in Positano, and then try again the next morning.
Type A Tidbit:
For this exact reason, don’t buy your ferry tickets ahead of time. It doesn’t save you any money, and since the ferry tickets are sold for a specific date and time, you run the risk of losing your money altogether. It’s best to wake up and assess the sea conditions that day before buying your tickets at the kiosk right next to the pier.
When we woke up the next day, our hotel concierge called the pier and found out that the ferry was operating! Hallelujah! Unfortunately, the high waves around the island still made it too dangerous for anyone to visit the ONE thing we really wanted to do there: the Blue Grotto. The Blue Grotto is a tiny cave that you can take a rowboat in. Once inside, the sun illuminates the water to the brightest, most captivating shade of blue. We did get to see incredibly clear, bluish-green water, but I’m afraid it still couldn’t compare to the Blue Grotto. We were told that any time there is a strong wind from the west, the Blue Grotto is too dangerous to enter. We checked the forecast, and it was going to be closed everyday that we were in the area. So now that the Blue Grotto was out of the picture, we had to come up with something else to fill our morning with!
I’m so glad I had come across Capri Relax Boats in some articles I’d been reading before we left. They were the best! They’re located near the ferry pier, so we walked straight there to ask them if there was any way we could still get to the Blue Grotto. Unfortunately, there wasn’t, but we asked about other boating excursions that were available. They offered a private tour around the island that sounded too good to be true. For only about $200 we got a boat just to ourselves complete with a knowledgeable skipper! Our skipper was fantastic! He pointed out landmarks of the island, navigated our boat through caves, took our picture several times, and drove us straight through the famous Faraglioni rocks (you might recognize it from perfume commercials?). Not to mention, he had snacks and complimentary prosecco. I mean, is an Italian boat ride even complete without prosecco?
Type A Tidbit:
Ask your skipper to stop so you can jump out and swim! The water was much too cold for us, but he did offer to anchor the boat for a while.
Legend says that you must kiss you sweetheart while you pass through the Faraglioni arch… you’ll be blessed with a lifetime of happiness together!
After our boat ride, we rode the Funicular from the port to the hilltop town of Anacapri. The Funicular is similar to a railway on a hill. Everyone sits in little cars, and it slowly creeps up the hill until you’re at the very top. The view from Anacapri was breathtaking, so we decided this would be the perfect opportunity for lunch!
There’s a few things you can’t miss in Capri: caprese salad made with homegrown tomatoes and fresh mozzarella, fresh seafood, and the flourless chocolate cake known as torta caprese. Our restaurant, Ristorante Al Capri, was perfect for a quick lunch! After eating, we headed to find a cab that could take us to the chairlift up the mountain. The cabs in Capri are so fun because they’re all open air convertibles!
The line at the chairlift was long, but it moved really quickly. Unfortunately, we couldn’t buy tickets for any of our activities in Capri ahead of time because we weren’t sure what day we would be able to take the ferry across. It worked out ok, but we did have to stand in line a few times. The Mount Solaro chairlift is a smooth ride to the top, but once you’re at the top, there’s really nothing to do besides take pictures and take in the view. It is a good opportunity to see the Faraglioni rocks from high up though! We rode the chairlift back down, but there is the option to hike down. We had too many other things to do so we took the quickest way to the bottom.
We visited Villa San Michelle and toured the gardens. The villa was built around the turn of the 20th century, and it overlooks Capri and the harbor. The gardens are so well-kept, and we enjoyed the peacefulness. They do charge a small fee to enter, but it’s a place you must visit. Our pictures don’t do it justice.
After the villa, we took an open air cab to the marina to do some quick souvenir shopping and grab some gelato before taking the ferry back to Positano. Our time in Capri was a little rushed, but still somehow relaxing. I know there are many things we didn’t get to do because of the time constraints of the ferry schedule, but we already know we have to go back to see the Blue Grotto!